Ziwa and how conserving the habitat for rhinos protects so much more. Diary of a Muzungu waxes lyrical about her latest bird sightings!
Everyone in Uganda is talking about rhinos at the moment, a timely reminder for me to reshare a story I wrote about tracking southern white rhinos with the Uganda Wildlife Authority at Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary at the invitation of then-manager David Bakeine.
I confess it had been a few years since my last visit: back then I was leading a wedding party of 27 guests on safari. The logistics of shepherding a big group of partygoers meant that we left Kampala late and the rhinos were all snoozing under the trees by the time we arrived for our rhino tracking adventure. On this occasion, I timed it better!
My rhino tracking experience
Rhinos are usually best seen at the start or the end of the day as they can’t control their body temperature. As the day heats up, they retire to the shade underneath the bush. On my recent visit, the weather was on our side. The skies were grey but the cool temperatures meant the rhinos were active throughout our time with them. This was going to be my lucky day!
Despite many years living in Uganda, rhinos are not a species I’m that familiar with yet. Two Uganda Wildlife Authority rangers, Khalid and Jackson, were to change all that for me.
Gregarious starlings and raucous hornbills were the background noises to a 10-minute briefing about the wide range of animals that live on the 70 square kilometre former cattle ranch. I came for rhinos but I sensed there was going to be so much more.
My ranger guides explained how, in addition to the flagship species of southern white rhinoceros, the sanctuary harbours seven species of antelope: Uganda kob, bushbuck, Bohor reedbuck, oribi, common grey duiker, waterbuck and the shy sitatunga.
I was intrigued to learn that sanctuary residents include iconic species such as the aardvark (seen three times by one ranger), porcupine and the honey badger. Ziwa’s 350 bird species include the Shoebill (which you have a 75% chance of seeing on the Shoebill Canoe Ride through the papyrus swamp of Lugogo that borders Kafu River). Leopard, genet, African golden cat and serval cat are some of the furry felines; hippos are resident in the swamps and crocodiles live in the ‘valley dams’ (important watering holes for the sanctuary’s wildlife).
As the briefing continued, I watched young kob grazing in the woodland close to the main compound. Warthogs trotted through the bush and guineafowls bathed in dusty hollows.
Rhinos through a ranger’s eyes
Ziwa’s terrain is flat, making it an easy tracking experience; however, closed shoes are recommended to avoid the occasional thorn. (Gum boots are available to borrow on site too).
The rhinos are constantly monitored so our rangers were sure we would see them during our one hour tracking on foot. Within a few minutes, we were in the socially distanced company of mother Wabire and Anywar.
They barely noticed us and carried on grazing. A rhino needs to eat a whopping 80 to 100 kilograms of grass every day so it’s hardly surprising that they were otherwise occupied!
A keen sense of smell and sharp hearing make up for rhinos’ poor eyesight. We knew when we were being observed as Wabire’s ears would face in our direction, scanning for sound. (I felt quite relaxed until I saw how alert she was! Both ears were pointing directly at us and she let out a snort – was she going to move towards us?)
Anywar is named in tribute to Jane Adong Anywar, one of the founding members of Rhino Fund Uganda. I was touched to be tracking this young rhino who was named after a great lady I once had the honour of working with at the Uganda Conservation Foundation.
The young rhinos love playing, particularly if they are in a group. They enjoy sliding off the termite mounds after the rains, rolling in the mud and scratching themselves on trees. Rhinos like to eat short grass because their heads are so heavy they can’t hold them up for long. The short grass around the compound is particularly popular with the rhinos. On occasions we have seen half the sanctuary’s population taking a nap next to the reception.
White rhinos are not as aggressive as black rhinos. “We wouldn’t be getting out of the vehicle if these were black rhinos!” The rangers laughed nervously.
That said, white rhinos can run 40 to 45 miles per hour. “They can only run this speed for short distances” (but you wouldn’t want to chance it!) Like most animals, rhinos are unlikely to attack humans unless they are injured or nursing young.
Khalid and Jackson have worked with Ziwa’s rhinos for several years. My hour in the company of these knowledgeable rangers passed quickly as they answered question after question about the rhinos and their habitat. Their passion for the prehistoric-looking rhinos was contagious.
A young oribi rested in the shade of a nearby Cassia; the tree’s bright yellow blooms added a welcome touch of colour to an overcast day. The calls of waterbirds such as lapwings and a woodland kingfisher reminded us how close we were to the swamp.
When I picked out a birdsong that I did not recognise, my guides were quick to identify it as a white-crested turaco. Tick! I was thrilled to realise that not only was I tracking rhinos, I was also adding new birds to my life list. I now have many reasons to return to Ziwa: not only do I want to learn more about rhinos but I am determined to see more of the sanctuary’s birds (and an aardvark, if you please!)
Do you like this kind of story?
Did you know I now have a podcast? Next time I visit Ziwa, I’ll be recording the sighs, snores and rhino tummy rumbles for you! Inspired by my life on the edge of Kibale Forest, the East Africa Travel Podcast takes you on walks full of birdsong, guided by a range of engaging experts. I chat to rangers, conservationists and travel writers. I’d love to know what you think (and where I should visit next?)
Where is Ziwa?
Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary (also known as Ziwa Rhino and Wildlife Ranch) is along the Kampala to Gulu road in Nakasangola near the bridge that crosses River Kafu. It’s well signposted.
How much does it cost to track the white rhinos at Ziwa?
Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary is now managed by Uganda Wildlife Authority. Until mid-2026, entry fees are:
- $20 per international tourist
- $20 for residents
- 10,000 UGX for East Africans
Rhino tracking is an additional:
- $30 for international tourists
- $20 for residents
- 20,000 UGX for East Africans
The full tariff of Uganda Wildlife Authority fees to June 2026 is here.
Where to stay when tracking rhinos at Ziwa
Although many people only visit for the day, Ziwa has a range of accommodation, including ‘luxury chalets’ (which seem overpriced to me but do have a beautiful swimming pool) and camping. I understand that the dormitory, budget rooms and guesthouse were being refurbished (but didn’t tour the accommodation on my recent visit). Upmarket accommodation is 12 km away at Amuka Lodge. I tracked rhinos on World Rhino Day 2025, in the lead-up to the naming event. We stayed in Masindi; there are many other types of accommodation along the main road too.
Why Ziwa is worth more than a pit stop
Ziwa has gained popularity with safari visitors because it ticks all the boxes: for the last two decades, it’s been the only place in Uganda where you can see wild rhinos. An hour’s tracking is a wonderful way to stretch your legs before heading to Murchison Falls in search of the other Big Five animals.
Those with more time on their hands should stay longer, it’s a destination in its own right: spend a leisurely two or three days exploring the sanctuary’s other attractions: nature walks, birdwatching, floating into the swamp in search of the Shoebill, or a night walk (with an armed ranger).
UWA’s plans to translocate some of Ziwa’s rhinos to Ajai Wildlife Reserve are at an advanced stage but for most people, Ziwa will continue to be the most accessible place to track rhinos.